Island Dreams' owner Ken Knezick has made more than a dozen dive trips to Honduras. This report is based on the knowledge and experiences gained over these many wonderful visits to the Honduran Bay Islands. It strives to compare and contrast the major diving and tourism options available on the islands of Roatan, Utila, and Guanaja. I hope that you find it of interest and value. KDK
ROATAN ISLAND - Roatan is the largest and most developed of the Bay Islands, but compared to Cozumel or Grand Cayman, it is still a natural and unspoiled tropical island secret. Thirty miles long, and a mile or two wide at most, Roatan is mountainous and lushly forested in jungle foliage. Water birds stalk the shallows, and wild parrots squawk overhead, while colorful hibiscus, frangipani, bird of paradise and other resplendent tropical flowers abound. The native populace is a mixture of the descendants of English and Spanish settlers, black slaves, and native Indians. English is the official language, though Spanish is also spoken widely. Tourism is welcomed, growing rapidly, and scuba divers are leading the way.
COCOVIEW RESORT - I first visited Honduras in the early 80's, when Caribbean Sailing Yachts was still offering its solid CSY 42's for weekly bare boat charter. Old salts will remember that at the time, Roatan's airport was a grass shack beside a dirt airstrip serving SAHSA's old DC-3 aircraft. One afternoon, Kenny Young and I commandeered our sailboat's Zodiac and ran before a following sea down the coast to the then fledgling CoCoView Resort. At the time, it was a modest work in progress on a remote stretch of waterfront surrounded by acres of mangrove. Though we arrived unannounced out of nowhere, I well recall the warm welcome extended to us by the resorts owners, builders, managers, and guiding lights, Bill and Evelyn Evans. Much has changed in the ensuing years, but fortunately that friendly, relaxed, "one of the family atmosphere" has been preserved.
Today, CoCoView can comfortably accommodate sixty guests, without seeming in the least crowded. The new lodgings are built cabana-style on stilts right out over the water. The entire wall that faces out to sea is screen from floor to ceiling. With this much ventilation, the ceiling fans keep things comfortable, and it's quite lovely to awaken in the morning and feel surrounded by a warm and (usually) passive sea. However, if you are the type who simply won't do without air-conditioning, CoCoView's original rooms have been expanded and completely rebuilt, with both ceiling fans and air conditioners included.
CoCoView's main house is a spacious two-story affair, with a substantial dining room, bar, and game room. Various pet parrots provide entertainment by shouting, "Help, I've fallen and I can't get up," followed by a rousing chorus of "Jesus Loves Me!" Meals are all served buffet style, and while the fare should not be described as gourmet, the food is good, varied, and plentiful. There are always choices of entrees and side dishes, plus home made soups, freshly baked breads and desserts, and a nice salad bar every evening.
The atmosphere is friendly, the lodging comfy, and the food good, but have no doubt about it...guests keep coming back to CoCoView for the diving. In my near twenty years of experience, I have never encountered a resort that offers a diver more ease and freedom in the way the diving is provided. A spacious gear room directly abuts the dock from which the dive boats depart. These boats are custom designed by Bill Evans and they fit the bill superbly. They offer plenty of room for gear and tanks, tables for cameras, multiple entry ways into the water, and three good ladders for coming back out. The service on board seems casual, but is actually quite precise. Over the years, I've logged more than 200 dives at CoCoView, and I can never remember returning to the boat when there was not a crew member standing by ready to take my fins and lend a helping hand coming up the ladder.
There are two individual boat trips each day. The rides are generally short, and the bottom times are at least an hour. You can follow the dive guide, which is advisable if you'd like them to point out the sea horses, sleeping nurse sharks, and other recurrent reef habitues, but if you prefer to go it alone, you and your buddy are free to make your own dive. The best part is that after you've returned to the boat and had a bit of a surface interval, you can elect to do a "drop-off dive." You change your gear over to a full tank as the dive boat motors back towards the resort. When they get close enough to suit you, you may bail off the boat and literally swim along the wall right back to CoCoView's front yard, over the wreck of the Prince Albert freighter and an old DC-3 aircraft, finally coming up right in front of the resort for the short walk back to the gear room. If you follow each daily boat dive with a drop off, and then make a beach night dive after dinner, you can easily log five dives per day here. CoCoView's dive shop is open from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., so you can make even more shore dives if you so desire.
All this diving freedom is a wonderful and valuable thing...but keep in mind that it can also pose a serious danger to people who do not have the knowledge, ability, or good sense to dive safely and conservatively. The dive team at CoCoView is willing to "cut you plenty of slack," and treat you like an adult. Just be sure that you don't abuse the privilege and get tangled up. There is a functioning recompression chamber on Roatan, but I strongly suggest that you keep if off your holiday itinerary.
SAN MIGUEL BEACH HOUSES - I suppose that I've been a guest at CCV at least ten times by now, but for the last five stays, I've made a point of staying in one of the beach houses that are just down the "road" from CoCoView. These extremely spacious lodging options are mostly two bedroom, two bath homes with a large living room, complete kitchen, a fridge for ice, cokes and beers, and a wide screened-in porch that runs the length of the house and overlooks the ocean. While the beach houses are independently owned and have their own management staff, meals and diving services may still be taken with CoCoView, as its just a five minute walk from your beach house up to the dive shop or dining room. With four people sharing a two bedroom house, the price comes out about the same as lodging in one of CoCoView's more conventional rooms. Are these beach houses really comfortable? The only recommendation I need offer is that last year I brought my wife to CoCoView and we lodged in Beach House #5. When we were not diving or dining, Susan spent her time swinging in a big hammock on the porch, sipping a cool drink, reading and working her needle point. She pronounced it the most relaxing holiday she had ever spent - and believe me, my wife is beginning to be quite spoiled as dive travelers go. So if you appreciate the extra space and privacy, and don't mind the walk, the Beach Houses are provide delightful way to eat, sleep, and dive.
FANTASY ISLAND BEACH RESORT - Also on the south side of Roatan, and directly next door to CoCoView, is Fantasy Island Resort, far and away the most upscale property on Roatan. Fantasy Island is a sprawling two story resort hotel, built on a large, man made beach. The spacious rooms are fully air-conditioned, carpeted, and include color cable t.v. and telephone. At the air-conditioned, ocean view dining room, meals are served to your table, after you order from a varied menu. Both the cuisine and ambiance are very good. In addition to three boat dives per day, the dive shop has every water sports toy known to man. With just a bit of additional effort, guests at Fantasy Island can access the same shore diving that CoCoView guests enjoy. If you are looking for a more upscale setting and superior amenities, Fantasy Island can be an excellent option, and at very attractive rates. Remarkably, at some seasons the Fantasy Island package actually costs less than the corresponding package at CoCoView.
ANTHONY'S KEY RESORT (AKR) - Anthony's Key Resort was Honduras' first major dive resort, now in continuous business for more than 25 years. Located on the north side of Roatan, it is a large property, with individual palapa-style lodgings built both on the mainland and on a small detached Caye 50 yards or so from shore. Five dive boats and a major dive operation stand ready to provide three boat dives per day to all comers. Also on site at AKR is the Bay Islands' only recompression chamber, and a small marine science center that has captive dolphins and sells both dolphin swims and scuba dives. Guests of any Roatan resort may partake of this program, but if you are interested, be advised to book well in advance, as it is a very popular option and the group size is limited in an attempt to avoid over whelming the dolphins.
INN of LAST RESORT - A relatively new property, Inn of Last Resort is built in a protected lagoon on Roatan's West End. The rooms are spacious and well appointed, including both ceiling fans and air-conditioning. The dive shop, restaurant, and communal areas are well arranged and attractive. The staff seems committed to good service, and now during the start-up phase, rates here are quite attractive. If the larger Roatan resorts are not available, or perhaps not to your liking, Inn of Last Resort might be worth a try.
ROATAN'S WEST END - In the past few years, a substantial real estate and building boom has been underway around Roatan. Southwind Properties "For Sale" signs have sprouted up on choice beach front property everywhere. A variety of new hotels, restaurants, and small resorts are now coming online, many of them clustered around the West Bay region. Thus far, for the most part they are patronized by European back packers. I have toured most of these properties, and frankly for my dollar they do not yet measure up to Roatan's more established properties. Then again, it's possible that I may be getting spoiled in my dotage. There are a number of little dive shops in the area, and a few nice lodgings as well. One stand out is Half Moon Bay Cottages. If you are on a budget, and/or interested in hanging out with what's left of the hippie crowd, the West End may be the place for you.
PARROT TREE PLANTATION - A very large, and apparently upscale tourist resort is now under construction on a large stretch of man made beach just a mile or two east of CoCoView on Roatan's south side. This large-scale development could well be the beginning of the "Caymanizing" of Roatan, and bears watching. Hopefully the construction techniques being employed will try to minimize degradation of the precious reef resources, and the resultant resort will be worth the effort. I will keep you posted as Parrot Tree comes on line.
UTILA ISLAND - Utila is a smaller island west of Roatan. It is becoming known as a spot with a good chance to see whale sharks during the months of March, April, and May. Up until now relatively unknown to U.S. tourism, Utila's popularity has been strong with European travelers. Tiny Utila already has more than one dozen different dive operations, and due to its affordability, hosts many Instructor Training Courses. While there are also a handful of small guest houses and backpacker style lodgings dotting Utila's one and only "main" street, I will report on Utila's two dedicated dive resorts.
UTILA LODGE - This comfortable, 16 guest, diver-oriented property was brought to you by the same fine folks who created CoCoView Resort. This is a relaxed, but diver service oriented resort, offering simple (but air-conditioned) lodging, three boat dives per day, and hearty meals. Utila Lodge advertises does provide complimentary shore tanks, but due to its "downtown" location, I would not put too much stock in the beach diving. Still, Utila Lodge offers a very good value and already enjoys a strong return client base due to its service and diver-friendly attitude.
LAGUNA BEACH RESORT - This is the new resort on the block, and a fine one it may well be. Owned by two young native Utilans, Troy & Bobby Bodden, it is reported that they have already spent more than two million dollars developing this beautiful oceanfront property a mile or so outside of "town." The rooms are spacious individual cabanas, built on a narrow sandy Caye separating the ocean from a large saltwater lagoon. Both the dive shop and the communal areas are impressive in their design and quality of materials and construction. Laguna Beach Resort is an excellent Caribbean dive resort.
GUANAJA ISLAND - Guanaja is the second largest of the Bay Islands, and the farthest east of the mainland. A very beautiful and relatively sparsely populated island, Gaunaja thus far has a total of only three cars, as the ocean is still its main road. Where as fresh water is a precious commodity on most of the other Bay Islands, Guanaja still enjoys a surfeit of fresh, sweet spring water. There are now reported to be six dive resorts on Guanaja, but due to its remote location, tourism to this island is still relatively light. It's a good time to visit Guanaja.
POSADA del SOL - Also know as Inn of the sun, this has to be one of the most beautiful oceanside resorts I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. Originally a private mansion built in Spanish hacienda style, Posada del Sol is now a romantic 19 room resort offering a superior level of lodging, dining, and service. When the weather is good, the gourmet quality meals are served by candle light at the side of the large fresh water swimming pool, a truly exquisite setting. While Posada del Sol does advertise complimentary shore tanks, there really is not much reef to speak of out front. Despite that, I did have the treat of being visited by a large bottle-nosed dolphin while swimming my laps in front of the dive shop. So if the three boat dives per day are enough to satisfy your nitrogen requirements, when you are ready to spoil yourself and someone special, I highly recommend Posada del Sol.
BAYMAN BAY CLUB - Bayman Bay Club offers a simpler style of living - spacious individual cabins built on a verdant hillside overlooking the sea. Its communal area is a charming four story affair with comfortable dining room, bar, library, game room, and plenty of nooks and crannies to find your own private hideaway. The dive shop and gear lockers are built out on a pier at the base of the hill. In addition to two boat dives per day (three dives beginning in 1997, we're told), there is a shallow but lively reef out front that offers pleasant dawn and night diving. I've stayed at BBC twice myself in the past and enjoyed it very much. Just keep in mind that it is a bit of hike up and down the hill that separates the dive shop from the rest of the resort. For additional diversion, a short boat ride down the beach provides access to a beautiful water fall hike back up into the jungle. The walk is not all that strenuous, and you'll certainly think it well worth the effort when you are cavorting in the pool of sparkling clear water at the base of the first set of falls.
BONACCA TOWN - Until you've seen Bonacca, the largest "city" on Guanaja, chances are you've never seen anything like it. A community of 5,000 people live in rudimentary wooden houses built entirely on stilts over the water, a half mile or so from shore. There is electricity, but not much to speak of in the way of plumbing and sanitary facilities. Narrow boardwalks connect the various homes and businesses together, and with an apparent lack of urban planning in effect, it's pretty easy to get lost if you take to wandering around. Other than as a cultural experience to see how the other half live, the reason for visiting Bonacca is to check out the disco. On Friday and Saturday nights, this otherwise somewhat drab and colorless town kicks out all the stops and really parties. The strange mix of music is indicative of the people who live there - you'll hear disco, hip hop, rap, and soca (soul/calypso), with slow dancing country western songs thrown in for good measure. If you are a bit adventurous, and like to dance, talk your resort into running a boat over to Bonacca on a weekend night. I can promise you a memorable experience.
MAYAN RUINS of COPAN - A Honduran cultural experience of another type is a visit to the superb Mayan site at Copan. Located in the mountains, a two hour drive from the city of San Pedro Sula on the mainland of Honduras, Copan is one of the finest of all the Mayan cities. Recent discoveries indicate that Copan was one of the centers of the Mayan world, and home to some its finest works of art. The new sculpture museum at Copan, inaugurated in August, houses a spectacular quantity of original stellae, artifacts, and stuccos; many of which have never before been available for public viewing. Large enough to house three football fields under roof, the Copan Sculpture Museum alone is worth a visit to the ruins.
A visit to Copan will require just two or three additional nights stay in country, and includes lodging at the lovely Marina Copan Hotel. If you have any interest in the history and ancient cultures of Central America, a side trip to Copan is exceedingly well worth the time.
THE BOTTOM LINE - The days of the Contras and political instability in Central America are long gone. Air connections to Honduras are quite good, with service provided by TACA, Continental, and American Airlines, among others, serving gateways that include New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, New Orleans, and Houston. The beautiful Bay Islands of Honduras offer good diving, comfortable lodging, service oriented resorts, and an overall excellent tourism value. In another ten or fifteen years, Roatan will have become as popular and well known a destination as Grand Cayman is today. If you are anything of an adventurous traveler, please don't wait for that to happen, as you may well then be too late. Experience Honduras and the Bay Islands now, while all is at its best...my guess is that you will find yourself coming back for more.
Wishing you great diving, and a world of adventure...
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